In Ibiza and Formentera

28th of April, that was the last time we were in a marina, the one at Calpe. So all the time since then we have been at anchor. It has been both good and bad, but we are getting very used to it and mostly feeling very confident in our anchor. 

After moving back and forth for three nights outside Jávea, we crossed over to Ibiza on May the 2nd. Our sail started very calm, with almost no wind and calm seas, which we were very happy with even though we had to motor for a while. After just a few hours we were able to motor-sail and then sail upwind with perfect wind almost all the way to our destination, Cala Vadella. 

The cala was much smaller than we thought, at least the inner part, and full of private mooring buoys. It was a bit scary navigating in there, finding a good spot to anchor without either seagrass or any bouys, but we managed pretty well I think. We also put out a kedge (stern) anchor at first, but we didn’t feel quite happy so we ended up actually tying to shore with a long line. 

We finally got to spend some time with our Instagram friends Ben and Nicki from Bora Bora! They were already in Ibiza and came to anchor in the same cala. So happy to meet and get to know such great people! We also traded a kombucha scoby for some sourdough culture and by now almost all of our first batch of kombucha has been consumed!

Vadella was nice and cosy, but very concentrated around the beach. Not much else to do that was interesting. We found some nice views while walking and also some caves just outside the cala that we took the dinghy to.

Two nights were spent in Vadella, and then two nights in Port de Porroig. First night was nice and calm, but then the wind and swell really picked up and found it’s way straight in to the cala. We might have miscalculated how it was going to turn, as wind turns around land here in ways that we’ve had to learn, the hard way obviously…

This is a view of La Vie in Port de Porroig, before the bad weather. As it picked up a lot during the night I actually rowed the dinghy out and placed a line at a nearby bouy, just in case. The swell was what made us feel a little insecure and as the wind turned at night more weight was put on our kedge anchor that we had out to keep us from getting in the swing of the swell…

After a sleepless night and half the day dozing off now and then while waiting for the weather, it felt SO good when we could finally sail away and reach a much calmer anchorage in Formentera! 

The water was insanely clear and as the weather was calm and with that, the water too, we could easily see details on the bottom, from ten meters deep down!

Formentera was very nice, calm and with a special kind of nature. Pine-kind of trees and bushes and low vegetation on a very dry, sandy and rocky soil. 

The photo below is from our first anchorage, where the rock wall had a very special shape and the tiny “beach” we went ashore on was made up of a soft mountain of old Posidonia leaves. As we left we rowed closer to a cave we spotted, but it was a hole filled with rotting seaweed! Imagine the gusts of pungent air coming out every time a wave went in 😷

We spent three days/nights around Formentera, the last one anchored off Isla Espalmador. A privately owned island open to the public, but also a natural reserve. It makes me happy to see all the Posidonia everywhere, and I wish people knew how important they are to our environment, improving water quality, giving shelter and food to fish and also for the sequestering of carbon dioxide from our atmosphere through the ocean. But yes, trying not to harm them makes anchoring a little more difficult sometimes.

After that, we sailed back to Ibiza, having a lot more wind than expected after a while and it increased very much as we were passing in between the two islands of Vedrá and Vedranell and Ibiza. But as we made it around the corner it just completely died, very weird. So we anchored at Cala D’Hort and went for a walk to see the views:

When we got back, the wind had really picked up and gone around the corner, causing the anchorage to become very unsheltered. We took a quick decision and moved up to Cala Vadella once again, this time arriving after sunset so we grabbed a buoy and layed out a kedge anchor.

The next day we sailed up to Sant Antoni and there we actually came across Ben from Bora Bora again as he was just anchoring! He was so kind and offered us the possibility to come and shower and do laundry at one of his friends hotel apartments nearby! What a treat! A real shower for the first time in a while! (We have a camping shower that we use after swimming, so we’re not THAT dirty 😁)

Before that, we took the dinghy in to town, went to a really nice restaurant and continued on our hunt for gas (propane/butane). Finally we were lucky and able to buy a bottle, and a new regulator/connection to be able to use it. We have been looking to fill up our old (one empty and one almost empty) bottles, but as it seemed impossible we tried to buy a new one. Earlier we only got the answer that they would trade them and not sell them, so we were so happy when we finally got one. Being without gas would not be good…

We sailed on the next day (not being really big town fans), after some grocerie shopping, and had great wind, no wind and too much wind, in just over two hours! So that was yesterday, and our current anchorage is Port de San Miguel. It’s quite touristy on one side, with big hotels and a resort on a small island, but on the other side of the cala there’s a forest with hiking paths and great views and also a small cave. 

The cala has high rocky sides and seems sheltered, but wind swirls around in here coming from different directions. It’s much calmer in here than the prognosis said it would be, so we’re still happy! We dove to check the anchors yesterday and today again, looks good! We also snorkelled around for a while, saw lots of fish, sea urchins and an octopus!!! It was quite big and changing color as we watched it, so cool!

One more night is to be spent here and then we are moving on to what might be our last anchorage in Ibiza, as we might leave for Mallorca after that. But we’ll see!

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